Hungary’s cuisine is as colorful and unique as Hungary’s history itself.The earliest records show that around the time of Christ’s birth, Hungarianancestors, a semi-nomadic Finno-Ugrian people, lived as hunters and fishermenin the Euro-Asian steppe. The Hungarians’ nomadic way of life brought theminto contact with Turkish tribes, which accounts for the Turkish origin inmany Hungarian words. By 500 AD the Hungarians had migrated to the territoryaround the Don River, where they learned much about cooking and baking fromthe Bulgarians and Turks. While living under the Khazar Empire in the eighthand ninth centuries, the Hungarians learned agriculture, commerce, handicraftsand winemaking (Lang, p.3)

The primary cooking utensil used by the nomadic Hungarians was the bogracs,a large cast iron kettle which they hung on a stick over a fire. These kettlesare still used today and a wide range of sizes can be found for sale at Hungarianmarkets (Lang, p.4). Soup was as much an important component of Hungariancuisine in the ninth and tenth centuries as it is today. Ingredients suchas sourcream, vinegar, sauerkraut and horseradish would be added to givesome varieties of soup a sour taste, while other soups were thickened witha combination of flour and fat, egg yolk, or milk. The soups were mealsin themselves, more like a stew than a soup, and were usually served withtarhonya. A small pellet-shaped pasta, tarhonya, which is Turkish-Ottomanin origin, is a classic accompaniment that is still found on most Hungarianfamily menus (Jacobs, p. 38).

The Hungarians also used a variety of techniques to preserve meat. Afourteenth century Italian chronicle states how the Hungarians would preservemeat by boiling heavily salted beef in large kettles until cooked, then cutinto pieces and dried in the sun or in an oven. The preserved meat wastransported in pouches made from sheep gut, and when taken on journeys, theHungarian would simply remove the necessary amount, place it in his bogracsalong with some water, and bring it to a boil. This convenient way of transportingfood was most probably an advantage to the Hungarian warrior. The Emperorof Greece, Leo VI, believed that the Hungarian’s defeat of the Byzantineswas due in part to their method of carrying food. The Hungarians had instantfood rations which were easily carried by horses, while the Byzantines foodsupply consisted of live oxen and cows that traveled with them and ultimatelyslowed them down. The conquering Hungarians would often celebrate theirfeat of arms by feasting for an entire week. Although today the occasionshave changed, the practice of feasting has remained (Lang, pp. 5, 6).

Other dishes prepared by ancient Hungarians which are still popular todayinclude stuffed cabbage, beef soup, fish soup, and goulash (Magyar, p. 18).The Hungarians also incorporated a great variety of grains such as milletand groats in their cooking, and later, rye and wheat, which were used tobake bread. Hungarian bread is made much the same way today as it was centuriesago, with a rounded shape and a crust that is neither too hard nor too soft. Robert Townson, and Englishman traveling through Hungary in 1797, remarked:“Lighter, whiter and better flavored bread than made here I never had nordid I ever see elsewhere such large loaves.” (Lang, p. 22). Of course, onecannot talk about Hungarian cuisine without mentioning pork. However, itwasn’t until after the Hungarian’s conquest of the Carpathian Basin in 895-6AD that lamb, beef and fish were supplemented by pork. Their love for porkemerged once they tamed the local wild boar in the new country, and it hasremained as one of the primary elements in Hungarian cooking today (Lang,p. 6).

With the crowning of King Steven in l000 AD and subsequent conversionto Western Christianity, Hungary became firmly linked to the Western ChristianChurch & Western European culture. This did not, however, save Hungaryfrom invasion from the East (Naughton, p. 177). These invasions inevitablyleft indelible imprints on the cuisine of Hungary.

Perhaps Hungary’s most influential period of culinary growth was duringthe reign of King Matthias “The Just” (1458-1490), who was instrumentalin introducing western culinary sophistication to the Hungarian table. Thefirst detailed descriptions date back to King Matthias’ court, which outlinethe spectacular banquets and feasts held in his dining hall (Magyar, pp.18, 19). One of the most notable banquets recorded was that of the weddingfeast of King Matthias and Beatrice, daughter of Ferrante d’Aragonia, Kingof Naples: “Several fountains flowed with special wine punches, and 980golden dishes were used to serve the wedding guests. The guests sat atlarge square tables and began with stewed meats of all kinds, flavored withginger, nutmeg, pepper and other spices. Then came roast game, such as pheasantand peacock, all kinds of roast fishes, pates, elaborate desserts and fruitcompleted the meal. Young noblemen were assigned duties in connection withthe dinner, carving and serving - even tasting.” (Lang, p. 13). Accordingto the King’s chronicles, the most popular dishes on the royal table werepork, ewe, beef, venison, hare, duck, quail and starlings. The chroniclesalso reveal the secrets of cooking style which states that “every food isserved in its own juices - goose, duck, capon, pheasant and quail, whichall are plentiful; furthermore, beef, lamb, kid, pork, wild boar and differentfishes always are cooked or marinated in their own juices.” (Lang, pp. 14,15)

The marriage of Matthias and Beatrice brought the flavors and style ofItaly to the Hungarian table. Italian cuisine blended with Hungarian cuisine. Queen Beatrice brought with her chefs as well as pastry makers from Italy,who brought with them pasta asciutta, figs, dill and pastries, together withwhat was probably the first printed cookbook. King Matthias requested turkeysfrom Milan and they were bred so well, that today, turkeys in Hungary areconsidered one of the best in Europe. Queen Beatrice was also responsiblefor the import of several excellent cheeses, as well as garlic and onions. Upon receiving a gift of onions and garlic from her sister, Beatrice wroteto thank her, stating that “the King could not have been more pleased ifthey had been pearls.” It was around this time that onions became one ofthe single most important vegetables of Hungary (Jacobs, p. 39). King Matthiascould often be found in the kitchen, chatting with the chefs and even helpingout on occasion. Chefs were appreciated and respected during this era, andwere even elevated to the level of the gentry. Cooking became an exact craftand for many, eating became a formal dining experience. Cooking, especiallyfor the gentry, turned into a hobby, and tableware was even produced by artistsand artisans (Lang, p. 17).

The rapid decline of Hungary subsequent to the death of King Matthiaswas due to inner dissension as well as by the attack of the Turks, whichultimately divided the country into three sections. While Transylvania becamean independent principality, the central region was occupied by the Turksand the western and northern parts were ruled by Ferdinand of Habsburg. This division impacted on the culture of Hungarian cuisine by introducingnew flavors as well as new foreign cooking methods. Turkish imports in particularwere incorporated into the kitchen of the common people (Lang, p. 18). Conversely,the nobility had chefs imported from France, whose talents bought the qualityof cooking to new heights. According to George Lang, “The new style consolidatedthe ancient Asiatic heritage, King Matthias I’s introduction of the ItalianRenaissance, and the mellowing effect of the French kitchen; and this amalgamshould be considered the foundation of the modern Hungarian cuisine.” (Lang,pp.20, 30).

One of the major changes the Turks brought to Hungarian cooking was theuse of paprika, the use of which was limited to the common people at thetime. The aristocrats preferred instead to use paprika as an ornamental gardenplant, and did not incorporate it into their cooking until the eighteenthcentury. One typically associates paprika with Hungarian cuisine, althoughin actuality, this “national spice” of Hungary was completely unknown inEurope until the discovery of America. Instead, spices such as dill, horseradish,juniper berries, rosemary, sage, marjoram, and wild mushrooms were used ratherthan paprika. No one is certain how the paprika plant came to Turkey, butwhat is known is that paprika became a popular alternative spice to pepperdue to the rising cost of pepper. Paprika did in fact replace pepper afterNapoleon blocked continental trade in the 18th century. The Hungarians initiallyreferred to paprika as “torok bors” (Turkish pepper) according to a dictionarypublished in 1684 (Magyar, p. 26, 27). In a Hungarian cookbook dated 1826,paprika was referred to as “new spice” (Lang, p. 46). This bright red spicewas added to chicken, fish and meat stews, creating some of the most unmistakablyHungarian dishes of today, such as paprikas and porkolt (Jacobs, p. 40).

Other contributions made by the Turks to Hungarian cuisine included strudelpastry, rice pilafs and langos, a type of fried bread. The Turks are alsocredited for bringing plants into Hungary as well, such as the tomato plant(an essential ingredient today), cherry and sour cherry plants, and corn,which was called “Turkish wheat”. Most importantly, however, was the importof coffee (or “fekete leves” as the Hungarians initially called it), whicheventually lead to the establishment of coffeehouses. The coffehouse wouldbecome an integral part of the social and cultural growth, a meeting placewhich would bring together for the next several centuries the Hungarian literarypoets, journalists and playwrights (Jacobs, pp.40, 41).

The character and style of Hungarian cooking were one again affected withthe defeat of the Turkish army by the Habsburgs in 1686. While the aristocratsmaintained their French-oriented manner of cooking (which was also practicedby the Austrian upper class), the middle-class Hungarians adopted such Austrianspecialties as schnitzel, sausages, potatoes, and vegetables thickened withflour and lard. By the early 1900’s, Hungary’s cuisine had achieved a reputationof the utmost respect which has been unequaled since (Jacobs, pp. 41, 42).Some noteworthy people who contributed towards and continued the traditionalmode of Hungarian cooking at this time include M. Duchange, whose Frenchstyle complemented many Hungarian dishes, and Joseph Marchal, whose impressiveresume included such positions as master cook for the Emperor of France,chef for the Russian Tsar’s household, as well as chef for the Habsburg archdukes’kitchens. Two other people of great influence were the Gundels, Janos andhis son Karoly, both of whom were famed restaurateurs as well as culinaryartists (Magyar, p. 20). Communist rule, however, soon put an end to thisera of culinary advancement. Political oppression and nationalization resultedin shortages of fresh produce, and the cost of dining out was prohibitivefor most people. This has changed in the last decade or so with the availabilityof seasonal produce and fresh food. There has also been an attempt to rekindlethe old charm of the traditional Hungarian restaurant, although the turnof the century intellectual atmosphere has been replaced by an internationalclientele (Jacobs, pp. 50, 51).

The Tatars, Turks, Germans, and others who have overrun and invaded Hungarythroughout the centuries, have left their indelible mark on Hungarian cuisine. These influences have only served to enhance the basic elements and practicesof the Hungarian kitchen which have been in place since the seven Magyartribes settled in their new homeland in 896 A.D. (Lang, p. 7).

References
Jacobs, Michael (1998) Budapest, A Cultural Guide, Oxford, NY: Oxford UniversityPress
Lang, George (1990) The Cuisine of Hungary, NY, NY: Bonanza Books
Magyar, Elek (1989) The Gourmet’s Cook Book, Hungary: Kner Printing House
Naughton, James (1996) Eastern and Central Europe, Lincolnwood (Chicago),Illinois: Passport Books